My Kancil Repair Story: From Turbo Failure to Engine Rebuild
It has been months since I last updated this blog. I’m back—but sadly, with bad news about my Kancil. This post covers everything: the check engine light issue, a melted wire, turbo failure, a full engine rebuild, and a faulty alternator. It’s a long but insightful Kancil repair story. Let’s dive in.
Check Engine Light and Major Oil Leak
It started with a constant check engine light (CEL). I checked and got error code 18—knock sensor failure. After sending the car to my mechanic, we found melted wiring between the battery and alternator. The heat had also melted the knock sensor wires.
That wasn’t the end.
The engine bay had oil leaking everywhere. I had to top up oil weekly. When the mechanic removed the engine, he discovered several worn-out parts: valve seals, oil seals, vacuum hoses, radiator hose, brake pump, and even uneven brake discs. It was time for an engine rebuild.
Turbo Failure During CNY Trip
I planned to return to Penang for Chinese New Year, so I drove the Kancil back to Ipoh. Previously, I bought a silicone intake pipe to replace the old one, but I delayed the installation. Big mistake.
Midway near Changkat Jering, the turbo gave out. I continued the journey, hoping no debris got into the engine. After reaching Ipoh, I quickly dismantled everything. My fears were true—the turbo was jammed.
Lesson learned: don’t delay essential repairs.
Alternator Problem and Battery Voltage Test
After replacing the turbo, the car refused to start days later. I borrowed a multimeter and tested the battery while the engine idled. It showed just 12V and dropped to 10V with headlights on. A healthy alternator should output 13.6V–14.3V.
I confirmed the alternator was dead. Another simple test is to disconnect the battery’s negative terminal while the engine is running. If the engine dies, the alternator is faulty.
Finding a Replacement Alternator
Sourcing a new alternator was tough. Eventually, I found a reconditioned unit for RM170 and paid RM25 for installation. I kept the old one to rebuild later—just needs new brushes and a cleaned commutator.
Alternatively, you can swap in a Kelisa or Kenari alternator. However, it needs bracket modifications and costs more. Here’s a rough breakdown:
- Kelisa/Kenari alternator: RM300
- Bracket mods: RM150–200
- Belt: RM100
- Installation: RM100
Final Thoughts
This Kancil repair story was tough but insightful. From CEL issues to turbo failure and alternator breakdown, each repair taught me a valuable lesson: don’t procrastinate on maintenance. Stay tuned for updates on the engine rebuild progress.
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